The Persistence of Pirs

Villages in Azerbaijan can seem introverted places to outsiders. But there is a place where people’s everyday hopes and fears are arranged in plain sight, usually in the form of a ribbon or a piece of colorful cloth tied to a tree.

A simple pir in Qax, typical of hundreds of these sites throughout the countryside.

A simple pir in Qax, typical of hundreds of these sites throughout the countryside.

Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Villages | Tagged , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Xinaliq = 6,000 Sheep

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

“Broken stones, inlaid stones, stones in riverbeds, stone in hand, tombstones, stones with drying dung, holy stones , stones to grind, to heat, to cool, to roll down the mountain and wait a hundred years for a shepherd to put salt on top of it, stone on stone, for sheep to eat”…

…I wrote while waiting for thousands of sheep to come down from the mountain to drink. I wait for them in the valley on the other side of the stream because of the sheep dogs that accompany them. I have asked everyone I could for advice about how to get past the sheep dogs to meet the shepherd, but no one filled me with confidence – these are pretty vicious dogs bred to fight wolfs in the mountains, so it’s a valid concern.

Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Villages | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Stray Strategies

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Had another story go up on EurasiaNet.org, so here’s a few photos that didn’t make the cut there.

Posted in Azerbaijan, Baku, Uncategorized | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Meykhana

Azerbaijan has always been located between cultural traditions, absorbing words and ideas from the vast empires that have surrounded it. So it is fitting that the only thing everyone agrees about today’s meykhana – a form of poetic improvisation – is that it is a unique product of the Absheron peninsula where Baku is located.

Some say it originated with from Sufi dervish traditions, while others see its origin in more secular literary forms. Even the word meykhana, which can be literally translated as “the place of wine,” – although “spirits” captures the meaning more closely – yields many interpretations, from heavenly nectars to back alley taverns.

Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Baku, Cities | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Adolescence

About a week before Eurovision I went to see some Azeri Rock & RollAbout a week before Eurovision I went to see some Azeri Rock & Roll

About a week before Eurovision I went to see some Azeri Rock & RollAbout a week before Eurovision I went to see some Azeri Rock & Roll

When Azerbaijan won Eurovision I was drinking with a Meskhetian Turk somewhere in the flatlands of Central Azerbaijan. I had gone to see the night livestock market, which isn’t exactly at night nor a market. But the point remains, instead of covering the biggest story of the year about Azerbaijan in the Western press, I was feeling sorry for sheep on a roadside in Sabirabad. Figures…

Even the sheep were thrilled!

Even the sheep were thrilled!

Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Villages | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Flower Day, Aliyev Style

On May 10 Heydar Aliyev, the former president and current billboard favorite in Azerbaijan, would have turned 88 years old. So naturally, the government pulled out all the stops. Like last year, thousands of flowers from 50 countries literally covered the park between the Heydar Aliyev Palace and the statue of Heydar Aliyev as two hot air balloons were inflated in front of the giant flower mosaic of Heydar Aliyev, ensuring that his unmistakable Kremlin-Mona-Lisa smile would soar above the city already covered by his portraits. Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Baku, Cities | Tagged , , , | 1 Comment

Poppies in Turkey (new old story)

The first story I wrote and photographed for EurasiaNet.org was just published. It only ran with three photos, so here are a few additional ones:

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Posted in Afyon, Turkey, Villages | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Carved Rock and Flowing Mud

Should you decide to take in the more-tourist friendly, less rusted-tanks sights of Azerbaijan, here’s the next thing I found heading southwest from Baku.

First the Gobustan petroglyphs, which the guide said are from 23,000 years ago. Yes, thousand. The internet says, 12-8th century BC, but honestly who even knows? There’s a couple hundred of these and they really cool in real life. Apparently, they put tooth paste inside the crevaces to make more contrast in the photos. I didn’t even try to do that – they already demand a 2 AZN fee for taking photos. But here’s a pretty holy site from long before there was an Azerbaijan, an Armenia, a Georgia, a Russia, a Persia – before any of that. Plus, look at that cool boat they made:

20110403-1612

Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Too strong or too weak?

That’s the question facing anyone covering today’s protests in Baku. Is the opposition too weak or is the ruling YAP party too strong?

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Baku, Cities | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Tank Cemetery

Heading southwest out of Baku you can expect a few sights worth noting, but the good stuff is hidden behind the walls of Azerbaijan Methane Company. There are other stops worth pointing out on the road to Gobustan, but my favorite was the tank cemetery we found on the way to Lenin’s giant head.

There’s the tranquil Bibi Heybat Mosque, The famous “James Bond” oil fields where they filmed The World is Not Enough, a few beaches, and some overpriced resorts in various stages of construction. Otherwise there is a mostly a big wall on the right and the Caspian shore on the left. There’s a hole in that wall that leaves to a barren world of pipes, more walls and petro-chemical plants across the horizon.

20110403-1437 Continue reading

Posted in Azerbaijan, Baku, Cities | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment