Villages in Azerbaijan can seem like introverted places to outsiders. But there is a place where people’s everyday hopes and fears are arranged in plain sight, usually in the form of a ribbon or a piece of colorful cloth tied … Continue reading
Mountain dwellers along the Greater Caucasus Range are fond of explaining their tapestry of languages with a bit of accidental divine intervention. First, Sherif tells me, God created all the peoples of the world and then set off to distribute their various languages, all of which were kept in a bag. But when the creator flew over the soaring snow covered peaks of the Caucasus and the bag got caught on a particularly high crag. Through this small tear came a stream of languages sprinkled throughout the region.
The first story I wrote and photographed for EurasiaNet.org was just published. It only ran with three photos, so here are a few additional ones:
My recent article for EurasiaNet.org can be found here: But they’re only able to take five photos with a story, so the slideshow above has additional images.
Azerbaijan has decided that their embassy in Tbilisi will not be open this week until Wednesday (Inshallah), so I’ve had some time to explore more of Georgia. Continue reading
Each year the Alazani river cuts a slightly different path along the mountains that surround the Pankisi Gorge. The modest log bridge above the rushing current remains in use, but there are also sections of dry riverbed further upstream. It’s … Continue reading
A few days ago I sat on the right hand side of Hussein, the brother of the late Kâzım Koyuncu. The band at the front of the restaurant has been playing for hours. Empty bottles of Raki sit at abandoned … Continue reading
There is one topic that never fails to elicit a laugh from the villagers. “I am writing about many things,” I usually say, “Like the hashhash, the Saints, the pat-pats…”