Tag Archives: music


Azerbaijan has always been located between cultural traditions, absorbing words and ideas from the vast empires that have surrounded it. So it is fitting that the only thing everyone agrees about today’s meykhana – a form of poetic improvisation – … Continue reading

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When Azerbaijan won Eurovision I was drinking with a Meskhetian Turk somewhere in the flatlands of Central Azerbaijan. I had gone to see the night livestock market, which isn’t exactly at night nor a market. But the point remains, instead … Continue reading

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Bards vs. Boulevards

I met Oleg my first week in Baku while roaming around the central shopping district taking photos. The entire area is under construction, with the sidewalks being transformed from potholes to fresh concrete or from perfectly good concrete to tile, and … Continue reading

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The Laz of Hopa

A few days ago I sat on the right hand side of Hussein, the brother of the late Kâzım Koyuncu.  The band at the front of the restaurant has been playing for hours. Empty bottles of Raki sit at abandoned … Continue reading

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